Old Jerusalem and the Western Wall

The current walls surrounding old Jerusalem were built by the Turks in the Middle Ages.  They look really cool with crenallated tops to protect defenders and slits for archers to shoot out of.  Totally medieval! Very easy to envision turbaned defenders and Crusader invaders. 

Now, 30,000 people live inside these walls. There are gates on most sides of the old city.  This is the Jaffa Gate, which leads into the Christian sector of the city.  There is also a street entrance--the opening originally made for military tanks to go in.

All the streets are narrow and intimate. 

 

Most streets are VERY busy!  The main thoroughfare was just a riot of colors, objects and noise. As it was a chilly day, I made a 30-second bargain on a pashmina scarf, not even my first choice of color, but it ended up being an important part of my wardrobe the rest of the week in keeping comfortably warm.

Suddenly, as we exited a street, there was a checkpoint--bags went through a scanner before we were allowed into the area by the Western Wall--the retaining wall to the Temple Mount.  I don't think I was quite prepared for everything that was going on.  People praying.  Celebrations.  Noise! The Wall is behind Kevin, Alice and Rachel.

First, the approach to the Wailing Wall is divided:  men's side and women's side.  On the men's side, Bar Mitzvahs were being held, with moms and sisters standing on chairs looking over the divider.   

(This view is from the right side) 

 And before entering, a place for ritual cleansing. 

This was taken OVER the fence.  Kevin is right in the center of the picture.

Now, on the women's side, it was a different 

feeling.  Sincere prayer, with tears flowing as the women who weren't involved with a Bar Mitzvah were worshiping.  They faced the Wall and rocked back and forth as they read from the Torah.  I felt like I was intruding on their spiritual experience.  As they moved back from the wall, they didn't turn and walk away, they backed away.  We later asked the guide why they rocked as they read:  because they are using their whole might, mind, and strength.

On the men's side, there were outbursts of songs and dances of pure joy.  I wondered how the women, standing not 10 feet away, with only a 5-foot fence to separate them, could concentrate and 

mentally worship.

 Later, we saw some groups entering from the Dung Gate to approach the Wailing Wall.  I had no idea that Bar Mitzvah's were such a big thing!  But it is the recognition that a 13-year-old Jewish boy is ready to become a man.  He memorizes a section from the Torah and reads it aloud to the assembly.

 Another group had a huge Hasidic action figure, with drum and music.  I don't know what that oboe-like instrument is, but it is prevalent in Middle Eastern music.

 Side note:  Jesus likely had his Bar Mitzvah at age 12 when he went to Jerusalem and to the Temple.

When his mother found him 3 days later, teaching the elders of the Jews, they were astonished at him because he knew so much more than the section of the Torah he would have memorized.

And if a boy does not have a father, he has his Bar Mitzvah at age 12 instead of age 13.

Joseph, being not his real father, would have deferred and let him go at age 12.