Monday, September 23, 2013

Eastern Qing Dynasty Tombs

Mid-Autumn Festival:  the first full moon of the autumn (according to the Chinese lunar calendar) and a national holiday, this year occurred last Thursday, Sept. 19. So the government decreed an extended holiday--Thursday and Friday off, but Friday is made up on the following Sunday.  (Kevin took a vacation day for Sunday).
 We used the holiday to go to the eastern Qing Tombs in the mountainous area north of Tianjin, in the same general area as the Great Wall.  Although we've had several free weekends since coming back after summer, the weather was too hot and humid to want to go out and do something like this.
Now the weather is moving into Fall, and much more to my liking!
 Here, the emperors, empresses, and favored concubines were buried from the late 1500's up
to the last empress in the early 1900's.
 Above ground:  a beehive-looking mound.  Below ground, the tombs of the concubines.
 Descending to the tomb of one of the favorite concubines of one emperor.  She had been from the western region of China and was instrumental in helping unite that area with China.
 The grounds were undergoing replanting--new mums everywhere.
And a discreet toilet.
With the renovations going on, the plantings are going to be beautiful,
but meanwhile, we had to walk over and around piles of dirt, and broken rocks.

 In the "underground palace" built for each emperor's tomb:  a vaulted ceiling of rock.
 Carvings of the things the dead would need:  food!  Some of the religious items were
definitely Buddhist, but others were not familiar.
Still, obviously there was a belief in an afterlife.
By many of the coffins there rested offerings of bottles of water or different fruits.
 Heavy stone doors swung on massive hinges to close off the tomb area.
 Concubines had small beehive-tops.  This emperor had a massive "beehive" atop his tomb!
 A carved "tree of life"?
 Similar layout to the Forbidden City, but not as big.
 The tomb of the last empress, Cixi.  Her coffin is encased in a glass covering (as were the others). As we visited, we suddenly realized we were alone--no other visitors--and every word we spoke echoed and re-echoed for 5 or 6 seconds.
Kevin was the first to try singing a tone and timing how long it lasted.
Then, he sang 3 notes of a chord--and all three notes could be heard for several seconds.
You could sing harmony with yourself!
So we sang a round (Row, Row, Row your boat--interesting how we couldn't quickly think of a better song!), and listened to the echoes filling in behind our voices, sounding like a choir.
I think this will be a favorite memory--singing harmony in the tomb of the last Empress of China!
We would have stayed and played with the acoustics more, but another tour group began filtering in and our exclusive time in the tomb ended.
I loved the evergreens (junipers and cedars).  
It would have been nice if the day had been a clearer day.
Still, some local person (probably one of the ticket-takers at a minor empress's area) 
had their wash hung out. 

From the valley, a road had been constructed to the tomb area.  
The center, a smooth marble walkway was only for the emperor.
The rocky cobblestone was for everyone else.  
After spending the morning touring, and eating a vastly overpriced lunch
we wanted to use the restroom.  Sure!  
Out through the kitchen, then into the backyard...
...by the wall with the broken glass bottles on top...
...and there we found what we affectionately call a squatty potty, the standard
Chinese bathroom facility.
They are always filthy and smelly.  But at least you don't have to
touch anything--that is if you have good balance,
and aren't trying to hold a purse or backpack.  And it's BYOT--bring your own tissue.
On the way back to the door leading into the kitchen,
I noticed the kitchen window. 
Apparently no exhaust fan at this place!
Ewww! And we ate there!
(It was good food though).
Just one more experience in China.

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